Seoul to Ulaan Baatar

Seoul (a few million people live there) was so lovely and a bit like Bangkok or downtown LA. Maybe Kathmandu skewed my expectations, but Seoul was clean and quiet and everyone was so polite. For instance we stopped in one restaurant to ask directions to another restaurant and they picked up the phone and called to be sure to give us the correct information. What a totally livable city with great museums and a spic-n-span metro. And who doesn't love Korean food (BBQ and Bi Bim Bop anyone?)? Flying into Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia was a little nerve-raking because UB is supposed to be a bit wild west. Apparently the thieves specialize in pick-pocketing. A taxi from our hostel picked us up at the airport at midnight (thank goodness) and we sped through Soviet-era streets to our back alley hostel. After arming ourselves with our cut-proof bags and pepper spray we wandered out this morning and wow, it's a nice little city. We avoid loitering guys, of course, but it's a charming mix of Soviet buildings, a few modern building, and Mongolian-looking stuff (not the official review but you know what I mean). And Mongolians are really attractive people who dress to the 9s and so that's fun. The museums are also charming and lunch today cost us a grand total of $4.oo. Tomorrow we're off to see some Buddhist temples and then the next day.....off onto the great Mongolia Steppe in a Land Rover for 15 days of nomads, reindeer, ghers, and lots and lots of boiled mutton. Oh my. xoc